How do you determine the number and dimensions of staves in a Bird's Mouth Mast or Spar?



Birdsmouth is the word in the shop, lately. We have several orders for birdsmouth masts and spars that are in progress. I have been working hard at nailing down the process to be able to make them efficiently and to a very high standard and feel very excited about how it is all going. The Landing School of Boatbuilding has asked me to to give a talk/demo on making things birdsmouth style, so I've been pressed to improve our webpage on birdsmouth spars as well. On the page is my procedure for determining the number and dimensions of staves in a birdsmouth spar. Gaeten Jette, a featured contributer to Duckworks magazine on the topic of Bird's Mouth Spars, generously helped me customize the online calculator for my use and students' use. I hope you find it helpful, too.

We make two styles of Birdsmouth spar, using symmetrical staves (most common) and asymmetrical staves, which when done correctly will yield a perfect octagon and a spar that is slightly stronger and quicker to make. I decided to apply this type to making an ultralight kayak paddle shaft.



I am pleased with the results. The biggest hold up was fitting the plugs in the scoops that will take a ply-composite or a carbon fiber blade, which is already something we produce for our wood/composite, high performance oars.

With that part of the process ironed out it really is just a matter of setting up the operation to produce these paddles after some testing. This one will go to some paddler friends who will take the design on the seas and really test it out. Hopefully, sometime this summer the results will come in and production will begin. I'll leave you with the best part of making new things: breaking them with a hammer. We test most spars this way to make sure that things break the "right" way. That is, in a proper glued structure, the wood should always break before the glue joint does, otherwise there is a problem. Happily, all our spars have been breaking the "right way" in the shop so we know they won't break out on the water.

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Installing Keel

Once I had cleared my thinking about whether to fibreglass the garboards and whether to install keel on while the hull was turned upside down, the time for action had come!

I called John Brooks. the designer of the Somes Sound 121/2 who explained the pros and cons of fiberglassing the hull - his view was that epoxy alone was a poor option and that if I wanted to use epoxy on the hull, I should also fibreglass it.  But when I thought further of how much the garboards are protected from abrasion by the protrusion of the lead keel, it became obvious that this was a wasted effort.  So I decided (again!) to stay with the marine paint and reply upon the quality sapele marine ply for durability....phew!!!

Next decision was whether to install the keel before turning the hull rightside up.  I was keen to pursue this option for reasons of access to final fairing of the keel into the hull and also since I have so little space in my workshop.  John felt that armed with the right lifting tackle the hull should be well able to withstand the forces of turning.  I then emailed Dave in SFO who also build a beautiful SS12.5 and pioneered turning the hull with the lead keel on, and he thought that my approach would work fine. Serendipity played its part when my neighbour and firewood supplier John gave me three large strong ratchet straps which were surplus to his requirements.   So that settled that!



I cut countersink holes in the keel with a forstner bit which was a little undersized but I was pleasantly surprised how well a straight bit in my router widened out the hole and gave a clean flat base.


Armed with these insights, Brian and I got stuck into fitting the lead keel.  I had repositioned the hull onto 4 cross timber to spread the additional load on the hull.  Also I coated the insight of the slot in the lead keel with epoxy to ensure that the surface wouldn't wear on the centreboard.


Fitting the keel  was not as straightforward as I had thought, as I had some difficult getting the bronze 1/2" bar down fully.   I had drilled the keel and keelson with a 12mm auger bit and thought that the slightly snug fit would be to my advantage however,  I should have really welded the top nut (or epoxied it beforehand) because relying on double nutting to screw the rod down only allowed me to go so far. I had to cut a a slot in the top of the rod to screw it down the final inch with a large screwdriver.  Panic set it as we realized the task was taking longer than anticipated as we wondered if the epoxy would kick before we got all finally bolted down.  We needn't have worried, but it was a close thing!!


Got to finish up by saying thanks to Brian and all contributors (Dave, John et al) who advised me so well on the process.  It seems like a real milestone has been accomplished!





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Internal Fit Out

Having completed the mast, I have resumed work on fitting out the hull.  I deciphered the plans for the mast step and installed these components between the mast bulkhead and trunk. In order to shape the supports for the mast step,  I tried using a spiling stick (or jog stick?) which gave reasonable results, in two dimensions, but when creating a three dimensional part - the third dimension being to follow to curve of the hull from forward to aft - it has limitations.  I'll get a photo of it tomorrow to make it clearer!
Hastily constructed steam box!
Next onto installing the deck filler onto the sheer clamps.  I cut stock from DF and then cut a 15deg bevel off one side.  This however proved very thick to bend inside the sheer clamp, so I tried my hand at steaming.

Being new to steaming, I elected to use a 4" soil plastic soil pipe.  I found a plan on YouTube which showed simply plugging both ends and using wooden dowels along the bottom of the pipe so that the stock is not resting on the wall of the pipe but rather on a rack of dowels.

I had a Black & Decker wallpaper remover steamer device which I was able to plug into a brass adapter in one end of the pipe.  


It created
quite a strong supply of steam, however on the first plank I wasn't able to get the pipe much hotter than about 180F whereas I understand you need it to be around 200F to 210F.  The result was ok but I don't think I left the plank in long enough and so it was still quite stiff when I came to clamping it to the outside of the hull to take up the sheer clamp shape.  The next day when I took off the clamps, the stock retained a decent curve but had considerable spring-back nonetheless.  Next came the slow process of cutting the end of the deck filler to align with the transom and over the transom cheeks which made for a tricky join and at the other end a simpler join to the bulkhead.  I found it difficult to get a tight fit at the bulkhead.  My process was to butt the end of the piece to the bulk head and then slide the aft end down at the transom to line up alongside the sheer clamp.  Each time when I clamped up the deck filler to the sheer clamp, the for'd end of the deck filler would move back by 2-3mm from the bulkhead and the friction of the boards facing each other seemed to prevent it moving back in place, despite repeated thumps from ever increasing sized hammers!  In the end when it came to glue up, the epoxy acted as a lubricant and so the joints came up snug.
Next process was to fit the coaming knees.  This was made simple by the addition of full sized patterns in JB's plans.  Clamping the knee to the bulkhead proved nigh well impossible due to its shape, so I used bronze screws to secure it both to the sides and bulkhead.  

Next I have to refine the 15deg bevel along the deck filler to accommodate the coaming.  I made up a plywood former with the 15deg angle on one side and a small torpedo spirit level attached to the other, which will allow me ensue that the coaming angle is accurate.  Initial trial testing indicate that I have only minor adjustments to make, however I think that the coaming angle makes a very big visual impact on the look of teh boat so I will trial fit patterns before signing off on this process.
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Lead Smelting

Have to say, I was really looking forward to this... must be the pyromaniac in me!

I gathered scrap lead from a local roofer plus a bucket of wheel weights from my local tyre depot.  The tyre weights were a disaster - maybe in the US, "tire" weights are still lead, but in Ireland and presumably all Europe, they all seem to be Zinc or Steel - with a very low percentage of lead.  My recommendation is: don't bother with tire or tyre weights............

Anyway, I needed to prepare the scrap lead into ingots, so I bought a burner which had a 8.8KW output - which in hindsight seemed to be slightly under-powered.


My crucible was made from the bottom of an acetylene bottle with two crude handles welded on.  In some ways the handles were superfluous  because it's too heavy to pick up full of molten lead and pour - I resorted to a ladle.

Initially I used bakers molds made of silicon, but they only seemed to last one or two pours before tearing   Baking tins are the business!  They produced 12Kg ingots flawlessly.  It's quite amazing the amount of dross which collects on top of  the molten lead, so I am hopeful when I come to pouring the final melt for the keel, I will have clean lead.



The pot at the right of the burner contains dross I cleaned off the molten lead which was quite a staggering amount.

The aluminium sheet on the right was used as a wind shield around the burner.    I think had I more insulation around the pot and burner, I would have used less fuel - as it was I used about one and a half cylinders of butane.

The soup strainer was a real cheap item which I thought would have fallen apart, but it worked perfectly as a method of cleaning off the dross on top of the molten lead, showing little signs of stress.

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Progress on Coamings

John Brooks, SS designer, did warn that the coamings are the most difficult part pf the boat.  He's right! John has issued further detailed instructions on how to make the coamings.  The process is to first laminate the two halves to each other, but not glued to the boat.  Then remove, and lay and epoxy on the dynel cloth onto the deck.  Once set, the finished coamings are attached.

On my previous post you can see how I grafted some additional material to the end of one side of the board. The glue up on the plank turned out fine, although had I planed the board before glue up I might have been able to match up the pattern better.  As it happened while I grafted on a piece from the same end the board, it did cross over a very attractive grain pattern.  Nonetheless, the joint was clean and tight and I think it looks just fine.

I then ran the board through my thicknesser before resawing.  Although I needed 4 x 1/4" thick boards from the board which measured 2"+, it's still a challenge to resaw this accurately.  First I resawed into half  - which went reasonably well but even the smallest wavering of the bandsaw blade eats into your usable stock.  I then thicknessed again before final resawing into the 1/4" boards.  As it happened I ended up with slightly different board widths but the sum of the parts equaled the required 1/2".


The final thicknessing was done with both 1/4" boards held together so that I was able to accurately thickness down to the 1/2" dimension.  Lots of noise, dust and helping hands from my wife and daughter!
The following day, Brian and I attempted to bend the boards into place.  
It went reasonably well until crack! - one board developed a slight crack where it meets the deck.  JohnC who is also building a Somes Sound did warn me about this and suggested using a layer of glass cloth epoxied in between the laminates.  So we planed back the inside of the laminates for about 5" either side of the stress point and epoxied a light glass cloth into the planed area.  Once sanded it was completely flush with the rest of the board and made for a strong and flexible solution.

You can see in this next photo the board with the glass epoxied into it where it meets up with the foredeck - an obvious stress point.  This is just one laminate - the other half, which also has a glass cloth insert, will cover this entirely.

We had to make up several clamp extensions, as none of my F-Clamps reached more than 6" and the coaming needs clamping in areas wider than this.  They are crude but effective - just two lengths of timber separated by a block and wired together, over which a regular clamp is used to apply pressure through the clamp extension legs. We ct a 15deg bevel on one side of the leg, which ensures that the coaming was evenly clamped to the side deck filler.

Once we had one half reasonably fitting, we cut down the edges to size using a batten to create fair lines.  This reduced the width of the board making it easier to bend.  The epoxied glass cloth worked really well and no sign of crack appearing at the stressed areas.   We then cut out the second laminate from the first board, making sure to continue the bevels at the transoms and foredeck - the two halves are not identical.

The glue up went smoothly and the subsequent fitting was easier than when the boards were dry as the epoxy operates as a lubricant initially before it starts to kick.

Here you can see Brian admiring the motley collections of clamps!












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Quality Plywood & Epoxy Encapsulation

I am a believer in epoxy encapsulation of wood; I wasn't always. Encapsulation entails coating the wood with multiple coats of epoxy, saturating the wood surface and building up a moisture-barrier. The moisture barrier is key for bilges and underbodies as it keeps water out of a laminate and maintains a more constant wood moisture content in timbers. Wood movement and ingress of water is what often gives wooden boats a bad name: high maintenance. Encapsulating forms a stable base for varnish and paint. We tell customers to expect a 10 year life for their paint. After 10 years of normal use they may need to do a fresh coat. That is as good as any fiberglass boat maintenance.

What convinced us of the merits of epoxy encapsulation was a visit to my friend Steven's house. He has a faering he built with his son that shows the effects of different plywoods and of epoxy coating wood.

Plywood and Epoxy Encapsulation

You can see three panels in this Faering. The darker plank is Joubert Sapele faced Okoume (varnished), the middle strake is Okoume by Joubert, and the lower plank in the photo is Shelman Okoume. All planks are finished with a Behr spar varnish.

Plywood and Epoxy Encapsulation

This is the same boat closer up to one of the tanktops. It is Joubert Okoume. The neighboring plank is Shelman Okoume. Both were varnished the same. The tank top is more degraded and molded than the plank. The tank top along the edge of the plank is perfectly clear. This strip was inadvertently epoxy coated when the squeeze out from the glue joint was spread during the clean up process. The same thing happened in the next photo: can you see where the epoxy is?

Plywood and Epoxy Encapsulation

The results? It is clear that the epoxy coated areas of plywood are making the plywood much more durable and holding up much, much better. The sheer strake is probably holding up better because it is higher in the boat and receives less foot traffic and a lower angle of sunlight upon it. The middle strake and tank tops get more direct sunlight. But the different brands of plywood may have to do with the difference between planks made of Joubert vs Shelman. It is too bad Shelman went out of business. Clearly, Sapele holds up great and Steven made a good decision putting it in as the garboard. With that said, I have also seen Sapele planked boats flake and shed paint after many years and these were boats that were not epoxy coats.

The moral of the story: epoxy encapsulation is a good thing.

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Centre Board Trunk fitted

The time finally came to cut a hole in the bottom of my boat!  A big long slot in the keelson was required to accomadate the centre board.  Brian came along to assist, which was quite fortunate as it would be quite tiresome hopping from the topside of the boat to inside the hull to position and clamp the trunk in place.

We made a template out of hardboard from the top of the trunk and laid this onto the outer side of the keelson, and drew out where the holes were needed for the trunk posts.  Armed with a 35mm hole saw, I cut 3 holes in the keelson and joined the middle and end hole with a jig saw, for the  slot.  This allowed us to use pipe clamps to hold the trunk in place.  Then we secured the trunk with #14 -3" screws and took away the clamps so that I could run a flush trim router to square off the centre board slot in the keelson, taking a line from the inside of the trunk slot.  This worked really well and ensured a gap free perfectly alignment between the trunk and the keelson.  Some final spiling of the trunk logs was required and subsequent finer shaving off the top of the trunk.  This resulted in a gap free fit and dead square alignment.

Seating the large 3" silicon bronze screws was a bit more troublesome - as they had Frearson (Reed & Prince) heads and the largest bit I had, a #2, did not have sufficient purchase in the screw head, such that I had to cut straight slots in two of the screws to drive them home.  It is surprising how large a pilot hole is required to get these big screws home into hardwood.  Even with the three pipe clamps in place, the screws created further squeeze out of epoxy which was satisfying - evidence that they were doing their job.


Once the epoxy had set, I removed the clamps this morning and re-checked alignment - measuring top of the trunk from each sheer plank to confirm symmetry.  It was rock solid and within 1 mm from sheer to sheer - all told a satisfactory result for the first time wooden boat builder!

So next stage was to cut out the centre board slot in the keel and glue and screw this down on top of the keelson with 48 x 1 1/4" SB screws.  Similarly, I cleaned out the slot in the keel with the flush trim router which ensured that all 3 slots (trunk, keelson and keel) were in perfect alignment.





As these nights are getting cold - forecast -3 deg celcius tonight, I have an electric blanket covering the keel and two small radiators running underneath the hull - should keep her nice and warm for the night.

Tomorrow - hope to start cutting out deadwood for the keel and attaching the outer stem and forefoot keel filler/  There are quite a number of different components making up the "keel" of this boat which initially was a world of confusion, but the fog is clearing and I now see the end in sight to having a finished underwater profile.  Exciting!!
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